Wireless Antenna Set Up

First,Thank you....For choosing an American Wireless Manufacturing Company for your product.Your employing American people Proud to have a job....In this economy,We must help our Neighbor,Keep our loved ones close,Fear our government,And Abide "The Lone Ranger Creed."                                                                                                                                                                         When your setting up a wireless network for maximum range, the wifi antenna cable becomes very important. This is because most of the time your access point or other wireless device will be located inside the building but the antenna must be mounted outside where it is providing maximum coverage and free from obstructions.

A good way is to set up your equipment up as close to where your antenna will be mounted as possible. In some cases it is preferable to mount the device in a weatherproof enclosure with the antenna or in the ceiling space just below the antenna. This configuration is optimal as it minimizes cable losses.

Outdoor Enclosure

Common Wireless Antenna Connectors         We've photographed and labeled the most common types of connectors you get on wifi kits, so you can work out what cable you need to buy to join up your wireless card/access point/USB adapter and Wi-Fi antenna.Wi-Fi Catcher™ Wireless Biquad,Helix,Yagi,Antenna Products are built upon Female Chassis Mount N-Connectors for superior performance and durability.A Male N-connector cable end would be the end to attach your antenna too,Then ending into one of the following and into your computer. 

Male N-Connector Female N-Connector
Male N-Connector Female N-Connector
N Connectors are usually found on external antenna and antenna cabling.We Have Pigtails, RF microwave Cable  RG-213 LMR-195 or LMR-400 cable Available to attach to your Router,Wireless Card/USB Adapter or Access Point Manufacturer.(Please Call 1-812-325-5695 for availability)
   
Male RP-TNC Female RP-TNC
Male RP-TNC Female RP-TNC
TNC connectors are usually found on access points such as the linksys WAP11.
   


Male RP-SMA Female RP-SMA
SMA connectors are usually found on PCI wireless cards, such as the Belkin F5D6001 or the Netgear MA311.
   

Female Lucent Connector
Male MC (Lucent) Connector Female MC (Lucent) Connector
These connectors are usually found on pcmcia cards like the Buffalo WLI-PCM-L11G.
   

The 'RP' in RP-TNC and RP-SMA stands for Reverse Polarity. Hardware manufacturers seem to love using connectors that are hard to find. Most commercial converter cables and pigtails, convert the antenna connector to an N-Type connector, as almost all external antenna (yagi,omni or patch) come with N connectors.

If you need to make an extension cable between the antenna and the pigtail/converter cable, we recommend using either LMR-400 or RG-213 cable as these are durable low loss cables suitable for 2.4 Ghz.                               

Most commercial external antenna have an standard N-Type connector fitted, whereas most wireless devices (access-points, pci-cards, pcmcia cards) don't. To join the two ends together we need to To Check which type of connector you have, look again on top of this page

Connections:

          While some manufacturers do sell cabling kits for joining antenna to wireless devices (usually access-points) they are both expensive, and only come in fixed lengths of cable. Ideally we want to to only use the minimum length of cable necessary,This is why we custom design your order. 

Buying individual cable connectors for wireless devices can be difficult, both in correctly identifying the connector, and finding a supplier who sells them.Please call us for help at 1-812-325-5695 MT

Three main types of converters, for TNC, SMA, and MC connectors.

tnc cable The TNC connector is usually found mainly on access-points, such as the Linksys WAP11.

For TNC connectors I recommend the SMC cable SMCANT-CAB25, shown in the picture on the above. This has an N-Connector on one end, and a TNC connector on the other, and is 25 inches long.

There is also a 78 inch version, made from thicker cable (LMR-400) the SMCANT-CAB78. The shorter 25 inch cable is more flexible and cheaper, so can be easier to install. It should cost about $29.00 dollars (US).

sma cableThe SMA connector is found on both some access points such as from D-Link, and PCI wireless cards, such as the Belkin F5D6001 and the Netgear MA311.

I can recommend the D-Link ECB-ANT240800 cable shown on the above, which is 50cm long, and has an N-connector on one end and an SMA connector on the other. 

sma cableThe MC connector, also often referred to as a Lucent connector, as it first appeared on pcmcia cards by Lucent, is usually found on pcmcia cards, such as the Buffalo WLI-PCM-L11G. I usually use the Buffalo pigtail WLE-LNC-3.

This is a short 12 inch cable with a female N connector on the end for connecting directly to an antenna cable, unlike the converters for TNC and SMA connectors which come with male N connectors. Around $18.00 dollars (US).

    A great primer for Cable Information                                                                                             

                                   

Tips:Where your cable length can be kept at reasonable length (around 10m/30ft or less for LMR-400), it may be easier to run a low loss coaxial cable. These cables generally have an ‘N connector at the antenna end. You will just need to make sure of the gender of the N connector on your antenna and the N connector on your pigtail to select a suitable cable. Most wireless devices have a very small connector to convert from this connector to a RP-SMA type.

pigtail

Times Microwave LMR-195 N-Type Male to RP-SMA Low Loss RF Wireless Antenna Cable Available...

Antenna Cable

Low loss antenna cable with N type connectors

Times Microwave LMR-195 low-loss RF cabling. This is not an off-brand. This is original Times Microwave cabling.

I've used this cabling to make longer cables (30 meters) for GPS without needing a line-amp because the cable is designed to have very low signal loss. It's a drop-in replacement for RG-58 and RG-142 cable that is used by most GPS manufacturers.

Applications such as GPS, WLL, LMR, WLAN, WISP, WiMax, SCADA, Mobile Antennas that require an easily routed, flexible low-loss RF cable.

It has the lowest loss of any flexible cable and comparable loss to semi-rigid hard-line cables.

RF shielding

Description of LMR-195 cabling

http://www.timesmicrowave.com/content/pdf/lmr/10-11.pdf

Advantages of LMR cabling…

http://www.timesmicrowave.com/content/pdf/lmr/04-07.pdf

                                       

dB to Watt
Conversion Table
 

dB

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

Watts

1.0 mW

1.3 mW

1.6 mW

2.0 mW

2.5 mW

3.2 mW

4.0 mW

5.0 mW

6.0 mW

8.0 mW

10.0 mW

13.0 mW

16.0 mW

20.0 mW

25.0 mW

32.0 mW

dB

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

Watts

40.0 mW

50.0 mW

63.0 mW

79.0 mW

100.0 mW

126.0 mW

158.0 mW

200.0 mW

250.0 mW

316.0 mW

398.0 mW

500.0 mW

630.0 mW

800.0 mW

1.0 W

1.3 W

dB

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

Watts

1.6 W

2.0 W

2.5 W

3.2 W

4.0 W

5.0 W

6.3 W

8.0 W

10.0 W

13.0 W

16.0 W

20.0 W

25.0 W

32.0 W

40.0 W

50.0 W

 

coax cable attenuation chart

Note - Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad Directional Coverage  Antenna is for use with 802.11 B/G/Super G/N wireless computer networks,Laptops,Home PCs with wireless cards,Router or 2.4GHz wireless video sending equipment. It is not for FM / AM / SW / LW radio useage.With directional point coverage in all directions, you'll be able to both send and receive WiFi clearly, without having to worry about your mid-range signal being dropped. Just replace your existing antenna on your router (or wifi card) with the  Wifi Catcher Biquad Antenna and mount. Powerful, rugged, and weatherproof, the 15dBi  Outdoor WiFi Catcher Biquad Antenna is also the perfect choice making your neighborhood wireless. It is also good for Cabins,Apartments, Boats, Big Rigs, and Hotels and works great up to one mile range in open areas.It can be attached to you laptop by  Velcro  or the  wall mount makes it easy to attach to any flat surface   for permanant placing.Speed Matters:.If you currently use Wi-Fi networking in a "less than ideal" location you will notice that your connection speed will automatically downgrade from 54Mbps (Megabits per second) to as little as 1Mbps. By adding a Wi-Fi Catcher  Biquad Directional Antenna you will increase the signal strength by 150% and therefore increase the reliable Mbps connection rate. The resulting higher Mbps connection rate is directly related to faster downloading and uploading speeds.

In our "in-house" tests, we measured the improvement in Wi-Fi speed by timing how long it takes to download a large file from another computer on our private Wi-Fi network. In our own "real world" test we tripled our download rate by using the Wi-Fi Catcher BiquadAntenna.                                                                                                                                                                                           
Wi-Fi Catcher: Biquad/Cantenna/Helix/Patch/Panel/Yagi/Antenna Installation:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   The hardest part of setting up a microwave network is finding a location for the antenna to recieve wireless.  Your radio signal path must have a clear, line-of-sight path and a clear Fresnel zone in front of the antenna.  This is because microwaves travel essentially in straight lines through the atmosphere due to their short wavelengths.  You can think of Fresnel zones as a series of imaginary cones with their base pointing in the direction of your antennas.  The greatest Fresnel zone losses generally occur when a diffracting object lies within the first 0.6 Fresnel zone.  The losses and gains for all other Fresnel zones are small enough (1 dB or less) to be ignored.  Fresnel zone losses of up to 6 dB can be avoided by ensuring that there are no object large enough to act as diffracting edges within the first 0.6 Fresnel zone.Walls,Cell Phones,Cordless Phones and yes kitchen microwave.  If a large, Metal object is in your path, losses may exceed 20 dB through several Fresnel zones.  This will force you to mount your antennas on towers or buildings at a significant height.  Unfortunately, microwave frequencies can also be affected by too much antenna height, and the signal can be degraded due to ground reflections canceling out the signal.  Signals will propagate through a few obstructions such as trees or small buildings, and the radio signal will slightly extend over the line-of-sight horizon, but you shouldn't always count on it.
Investing the time to find the right line of path to find a wireless network takes patience and is well worth the reward.
                                                                                                                                                                    
The azimuth plot (ie, radiation pattern) of the biquad  shows a 3dB beamwidth of about 50 degrees.  When using a biquad to establish a link to another wireless device, you should ensure the polarisation of the biquad is the same as the antenna you are connecting to. Similarily, if establishing a link with two biquads, ensure they are both oriented for the same polarisation.

Failing to match the polarisation will result in significant signal loss.

 Wi-Fi Catcher™ Biquad Satellite Dish  Conversion:
Since the satellite dish has an off-center feed it looks like it is pointed at the ground when it is level with the horizon. Even though there are no angle markings for setting the dish at 0 degrees inclination we can still ensure that the dish is pointing at the horizon by setting the dish angle to 45 degrees and mounting the Wi-Fi Catcher  on  with a 45 degree angle.Make a provision to rotate the antenna 90 degrees.The ability to rotate 90 degrees will allow you to match the polarization of the distant antenna or router you're connecting to.
                                                                                                                                                                                       Vertically polarised vs Horizontally polarised

Changing the polarisation is just a matter of rotating the entire biquad antenna by 90 degrees.

The biquad antenna is not particularly directional, but has a fairly wide beamwidth.

The 3dB beamwidth for a biquad (without side lips) is typically about 40-50 degrees, thus making it ideal for any applications where you want fairly wide coverage.

The relatively wide beamwidth also makes a biquad very suitable for war-driving and stumbling, allowing you to pick up signals without having to align the antenna directly with the signal source.

While a directional antenna, such as a Conifer dish (3dB beamwidth of a 24dBi Conifer dish is approx 7 degrees), is better suited for point-to-point links, the narrow beamwidth of a Conifer dish requires more precision when aligning the antennas (the narrower the beamwidth, the less susceptible it will be to interferance from other sources). An antenna with a wider beamwidth, such as a biquad, doesn't require the same precision for alignment, thus making it easier to get a link working.

                                       Antenuation By Trees:

        Frequency (MHz)       Approximate Attenuation (dB/meter)

    432                   0.10 - 0.30
    1296                  0.15 - 0.40
    2304                  0.25 - 0.50
    3300                  0.40 - 0.60
    5600                  0.50 - 1.50
    10000                 1.00 - 2.00

    Microwaves are not effected by the ionized layers in our atmosphere because these layers are higher than the normal line-of-sight transmission of the signals.  Temperature inversions can be a problem though.  This is because as hot air rises, moisture rising with the air causes attenuation of the signal. Lower microwave frequencies are also not as affected by water vapor and oxygen as you might think. For more information on atmospheric absorption and ducting,GOOGLE...  Also consider the temperature effects on paths such as: reflections, refractions, diffractions, transmission "ducts" and even tropospheric reflections and scattering.
    
    Refer to the VHF/UHF/Microwave Radio Propagation: A Primer for Digital Experimenters for a very good overview of radio propagation on microwave radio networks.I have received many emails from folks who are very involved with HAM radio and other professions and hobbies that involve work with high frequency microwave radiation. They warn that 2.4 GHz just happens to also be the resonant frequency of plain old water. This is why a microwave oven works. The energy of an 802.11b device is the same kind of energy that cooks your food, but on a much smaller scale. This is important considering that we as humans are 98% made of water. I have been warned that exposure to even as little as a 1/4 watt amplified with a 12db antenna, such as described here, could lead to severe vision problems and possibly other health issues.Never Hold Antenna in hand while in use.

    Other sources of performance degradation in frequency hopping systems are spectrum background noise, received signal fading, interference from other services in that frequency range, random FM components in the signal, "click" noise resulting from the phase discontinuites between frequency hops, errors in receiver synchronization, or even the wind moving your antennas.

Signal Polarity:

    The antennas will also have to have the same RF signal polarity.  The polarity of the signal will depend on the direction the actual antenna is positioned.  If it's up/down then the polarity is vertical, if it's left/right then it's horizontal, if it's diagonal (45° usually), then you'll have diagonal polarization.  By not having the same polarity on your network's antennas, you can receive a 20 dB loss of signal strength.  This is an enormous loss, but can also be very useful.  By changing antenna polarization you can help eliminate certain types of radio interference, or find the right line of path in one location.  Horizontal antenna polarization at microwave frequencies will generally provide less multipath and may also provide lower path loss in non line-of-sight situations, but you should always experiment with different polarizations,by adjusting the antenna and using a program like Netstumbler to Tune in your Wi-Fi Catcher antenna.
    Try to also avoid installing your antenna in areas that are located near MMDS or ITFS transmitter sites.  You can query FCC or PerCon frequency databases for the coordinates to transmitter locations in your area.  You can then look up the sites via these coordinates at the Tiger map server.  This is the type of data you will be searching for.  You should also note that MMDS uses horizontal antenna polarization, so if you need to locate your antenna site near one, use vertical polarization.  Other things to look out for at your antenna site are high power PCS wireless cell phone transmissions in the 1.8 - 1.9 GHz band, broadband noise from high power co-located transmitters, harmonics from mobile radio and paging transmitters, and other nearby microwave links.
       
  Try PolyPhaser for very good information on grounding and lightning protection. You can purchase lightning protection from Harger Lightning.


Positioning the Access point:
In order to reduce the amount of signal lost due to the cable between the antenna and wireless device, ideally the wireless device, should be situated as close to the antenna as possible. Most access points are not waterproof, so need to be kept indoors. Ideally if the antenna is roof mounted, then positioning the access point in the loft will be the best solution. If you are connecting your antenna to a laptop or PC, then clearly the cable will have to run further, but you still need to try and route the cable so that it is as short as possible. A long cable run can easily negate the benefit of a root mounted antenna.
Ice and Rain:

    ICE/Rain IS BAD!  Ice or rain buildup on antenna elements will result in a increased SWR (impedance mismatch) that will de-tune a transmitter system,Oxidise a copper element prematurely and significantly reducing its output power.  Ice and Rain can also cause severe transmission line damage,.  The easiest way to prevent ice buildup is with special antenna heaters or by covering the antenna system with a enclosure from the weather.                                                                                                                                   

                      Tip! Because the Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad has linear polarization, you may find that you get a better signal by rotating it slightly clockwise or counterclockwise on the tripod along its cylindrical axis.

The unsolicited testimonials we receive from our Wi Fi Long Distance  Digital  Antennas highlight the level of attention and integrity we offer every Customer. Our commitment to providing you with high quality service and excellent Products to last you  for many years is a Promise.All Wi-Fi Catcher™ Products come with three year Repair/replace warranty.

Here's what our client's have to say:

I purchased a out door Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna in  2004. Threes years later with no problems at all,I am adding another to my rental 1200 feet away.Adding  in lease" free  WiFi"..You guys have been great,Thanks for always having the time to speak with me by phone call you returned promptly. I have never experienced better service!Thanks.
-Jerry Walker
  St.Mary's,GA.

I am amazed at the distance i can pull in on my Wi Fi Catcher Antenna. I consistently receive  Four Bar as to where just my lap top just picks up the one.Also, since i canceled Comcast DSL,I can attest to my area being just as fast if not the same.My total drops is less then 5%,Very pleased.
-Graham Wellington
  Boulder,CO.

I just wanted a cheap antenna to get Free WI FI in my area.AT@T raised their prices AGAIN!Almost $32.00 a Month!!Tired of DSL Prices. Yours was just what i needed to the Tee.Thank you Wi-Fi Catcher!!!
  -Jennifer Hill, West Canal,Ohio                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Very Impressed with the Fast Shipping of your WiFi  Catcher Biquad Antenna I purchased in Oct, This Thing is Fantastic!!!! and Powerful.      -Steve Janson  Canada                                                                                                                                                          Questions / Answers and About Us...                                                                                                                                                                         What do I need to set up a wireless network?

You will need a Wi-Fi compatible base station, an access point or a client card, a computer, and an Internet connection. To increase the range and boost signal strength of your network, use our Biquad antenna.

What do I need to pick up a wireless signal without having to buy a base station?

You will need a Wi-Fi compatible access point or client card and a computer. Unless the Wi-Fi signal is very close, you will need a Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad Antenna.

What’s the difference between a router, base station, access point, and client card? Why are these terms so confusing?

Every manufacturer uses its own terminology, which can cause some confusion. Here is a simplified explanation:

In Wi-Fi, a router is usually referred to as a base station, and broadcasts your Internet signal. The router is typically attached to an Internet connection via a USB or Ethernet port.

A client card usually refers to a PCMCIA wireless card. The client card is attached to your laptop, or inserted into your PDA’s PCI slot.

An access point is the radio device that receives the signal from the base station. It attaches to your laptop or computer via USB, PCI slot, or Ethernet. An access point can also mean a physical area (Hot Spot) where you can pick up Wi-Fi signals.

Do I connect the Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad to the base station or client card?

You can connect it to the base station, the client card (or access point), or both for maximum effect.

How do I measure the signal strength of the Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad?

You can download software like NetStumbler or its Mac cousin, MacStumbler. HP also offers the Wireless Connection Manager. Wndows XP users can use the built-in Wireless Network Connection Status window.

I am losing signal strength in parts of my house, particularly down in the basement. Can a Wi-Fi catcher Biquad bridge that gap and how can I maximize its effect?

Yes, the Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad may help to boost the signal depending on the layout of your house, and the obstruction that is weakening the signal. Signal strength decreases as the distance between base station and your computer increases. Try moving your base station and Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad away from the wall, metal tables, cabinets, or similar obstructions. Experiment by pointing the Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad in different directions, even away from the area that you are trying to reach. Sometimes rotating the Biquad on its axis so that the connector points sideways or up will help to boost the signal. Finally, in your basement try moving your laptop toward the middle of the room, away from the walls or metal. You can also try tilting your laptop (or Wi-Fi receiver if you have a desktop computer) on its horizontal axis.

I do not have a base station or Internet connection, but I was told that my apartment complex has a Wi-Fi network. Can I get free Internet access with with a Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna?

You will need a 802.11b or 802.11g wireless device that connects to your laptop or desktop computer. Whether or not you will be able to pick up a signal depends on the proximity of a broadcasting signal, obstructions, and strength of signal. If the person that broadcasts the signal uses encryption, you have to request a username and password to gain access.

How can I test to see if I get a signal at my house before I buy a Wi-Fi catcher Biquad Antenna?

Our Wi-Fi Catcher Antennas can only pick up and boost an existing Wi-Fi signal. There are many factors that determine signal strength, such as obstructions, atmospheric conditions, distance, and strength of the originating signal. To check your neighborhood for Wi-fi signals, try using software like NetStumblerMacStumbler. Walk or drive around your area to see if you can pick up a nearby Wi-fi signal. There are also little key-chain type Wi-Fi sniffers that signal when you are in the presence of an active network. or its Mac cousin,

Can I return the Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna if I don’t pick up a signal?

Yes, you may return any of our products within thirty days, however, you are responsible for all shipping and handling costs. The Antenna must be returned in its original condition and in its original package within 30 days of purchase for a full refund of the purchase price. 

Is it legal to use your Wi-Fi Catcher™ Antenna?

Yes, our Antennas and Pigtails have been tested and comply with part 15 of the FCC rules. Make sure other wireless devices that you use also comply. Compliance with FCC regulations is your responsibility. Check with your Internet Service Providers to find out if they permit sharing of their Internet connections.

How safe is it to use a Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna?

  WiFi Catcher Antennas should not be used outdoors without being properly grounded.Other than that, it is subject to the same radio waves as your cordless phone, microwave, cell phone, radio, etc. If you are concerned about your sensitive data, as with any other wired connection, without using encryption your network can be subject to potential eavesdropping. Always take appropriate security measures to protect your data.

My router has two antennas. Where do I attach the Wi-Fi Catcher?

If your router or base station has removable antennas, unscrew one of the antennas and connect the Wi-Fi Catcher. We recommend using the side that points away from a wall or obstruction. You can keep the other antenna attached, but also try it without it as it may cause interference. If your device has an external antenna jack, connect the pigtail directly to it, and leave the other antennas in place.

Can I just make my own Pigtail?

Sure, but it may not be worth the effort in research, soldering, testing, and cost of parts. Pigtails are very sensitive to interference and signal loss, and are carefully engineered, manufactured and tested.

I want to mount my Wi-Fi Catcher about 25 feet away from my base station. Can you provide me with a 25 foot long Pigtail?

In general, the longer a Pigtail is, the more of a signal loss you may experience. For that reason, we currently limit production of our cables to 10 feet. 25 feet would cause a severe signal loss. You could purchase a wireless bridge, such as the Linksys WET54G, which attaches to your Ethernet port. A 25-foot long Ethernet cable could then be used without substantial signal loss.

I have a Macintosh. What are my options?

Linksys, D-Link, Buffalo Technology, and Belkin have base stations, Wi-Fi access points, or PC cards available. Just make sure that they have an external antenna jack to attach a Wi-Fi catcher Biquad. If you have Apple’s Airport Extreme (modem edition only), you can purchase the optional laptop adapter (MCX-Plug). G5 owners can connect the Wi-Fi Catcher biquad with the optional laptop adapter directly to the G5's external antenna port.

How can I mount the Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna?

Each Wi-Fi Catcher has a mounting port for standard tripod units. Or, we sell  mounting hardware as well.Also, you can use your own mounting hardware.

Can I mount your in wireless antennas  outside?

Yes,all the Wi-Fi Catcher Antennas are weather resistant. Make sure that you ground it properly.

I read in Time Magazine that I can make a Antenna myself, why should I buy one?

It’s true that techno wizards have been making their own Antennas for years, however, you may not want to spend your weekend learning basic antenna physics, finding parts, soldering, assembling and testing several designs before finding the one that works best. To buy or to build? You decide.

Why is your Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad better than the copper square one?

Our engineers have optimized can dimensions, shielding, and polarization for maximum signal strength and distance.Each Wi-Fi Catcher Biquad is tested at 14.4 dBi and will not oxidize like the 12dBi  open copper element ones on eBay.We use only high-quality and lab-tested materials to manufacture the outer shell and inner parts. With aThree year Repair/Replace Warranty,We remain Number #1 in Sales and Quality.

Can I use a Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna to access online games with my Playstation? What about my PocketPC?

You can use your Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna with any wireless network (802.11b) enabled device, provided it has an external antenna or an Ethernet port. To use your Playstation in the Starbucks parking lot, you can get a new wireless Ethernet bridge from Linksys.

Will my Wi-Fi Catcher Antenna and Pigtail work with the new 802.11g/n Wi-Fi routers and access points?

Yes. The radio wave length and height dimensions are identical to 802.11b. You can use your existing Antenna on 802.11g devices, as long as they have an external antenna jack that fits your current Pigtail (or any Pigtail that we carry).

Is the Wi-Fi Catcher Guaranteed?

All Wi-Fi catcher parts are guaranteed. Wi-Fi Catcher™ makes no guarantee of actual performance as several factors may inhibit the Wi-Fi Catcher's effectiveness, such as obstructions, atmospheric conditions, distance, and strength of the originating signal. That being said, if for any reason you are not satisfied with the Wi-Fi catcher Biquad, you may return it within thirty days of purchase for a full refund of the purchase price.

                                                                

What Is WiFi?

What's in a name?
You may be wondering why people refer to WiFi as 802.11 networking. The 802.11 designation comes from the IEEE. The IEEE sets standards for a range of technological protocols, and it uses a numbering system to classify these standards.

A wireless network uses radio waves, just like cell phones, televisions and radios do. In fact, communication across a wireless network is a lot like two-way radio communication. Here's what happens:

  1. A computer's wireless adapter translates data into a radio signal and transmits it using an antenna.
  2. A wireless router receives the signal and decodes it. The router sends the information to the Internet using a physical, wired Ethernet connection.
The process also works in reverse, with the router receiving information from the Internet, translating it into a radio signal and sending it to the computer's wireless adapter.

The radios used for WiFi communication are very similar to the radios used for walkie-talkies, cell phones and other devices. They can transmit and receive radio waves, and they can convert 1s and 0s into radio waves and convert the radio waves back into 1s and 0s. But WiFi radios have a few notable differences from other radios:

  • They transmit at frequencies of 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz. This frequency is considerably higher than the frequencies used for cell phones, walkie-talkies and televisions. The higher frequency allows the signal to carry more data.
  • They use 802.11 networking standards, which come in several flavors:
    • 802.11a transmits at 5 GHz and can move up to 54 megabits of data per second. It also uses orthogonal frequency-division multiplexing (OFDM), a more efficient coding technique that splits that radio signal into several sub-signals before they reach a receiver. This greatly reduces interference.
    • 802.11b is the slowest and least expensive standard. For a while, its cost made it popular, but now it's becoming less common as faster standards become less expensive. 802.11b transmits in the 2.4 GHz frequency band of the radio spectrum. It can handle up to 11 megabits of data per second, and it uses complementary code keying (CCK) modulation to improve speeds.
    • 802.11g transmits at 2.4 GHz like 802.11b, but it's a lot faster -- it can handle up to 54 megabits of data per second. 802.11g is faster because it uses the same OFDM coding as 802.11a.
    • 802.11n is the newest standard that is widely available. This standard significantly improves speed and range. For instance, although 802.11g theoretically moves 54 megabits of data per second, it only achieves real-world speeds of about 24 megabits of data per second because of network congestion. 802.11n, however, reportedly can achieve speeds as high as 140 megabits per second. The standard is currently in draft form -- the Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) plans to formally ratify 802.11n by the end of 2009.
  • Other 802.11 standards focus on specific applications of wireless networks, like wide area networks (WANs) inside vehicles or technology that lets you move from one wireless network to another seamlessly.
  • WiFi radios can transmit on any of three frequency bands. Or, they can "frequency hop" rapidly between the different bands. Frequency hopping helps reduce interference and lets multiple devices use the same wireless connection simultaneously.
Other Wireless Networking Standards
Another wireless standard with a slightly different number, 802.15, is used for Wireless Personal Area Networks (WPANs). It covers a very short range and is used for Bluetooth technology.

WiMax, also known as 802.16, looks to combine the benefits of broadband and wireless. WiMax will provide high-speed wireless Internet over very long distances and will most likely provide access to large areas such as cities.

­As long as they all have wireless adapters, several devices can use one router to connect to the Internet. This connection is convenient, virtually invisible and fairly reliable; however, if the router fails or if too many people try to use high-bandwidth applications at the same time, users can experience interference or lose their connections.

Next, we'll look at how to connect to the Internet from a WiFi hotspot.

   

WiFi Hotspots

If you want to take advantage of public WiFi hotspots or start a wireless network in your home, the first thing you'll need to do is make sure your computer has the right gear. Most new laptops and many new desktop computers come with built-in wireless transmitters. If your laptop doesn't, you can buy a wireless adapter that plugs into the PC card slot or USB port. Desktop computers can use USB adapters, or you can buy an adapter that plugs into the PCI slot inside the computer's case. Many of these adapters can use more than one 802.11 standard.

Wireless adapters can plug into a computer's PC card slot or USB port.
Alfa USB wireless adapter and Antenna Consumer Guide Products
Wireless adapters can plug into a computer's PC card slot or USB port.

Once you've installed your wireless adapter and the drivers that allow it to operate, your computer should be able to automatically discover existing networks. This means that when you turn your computer on in a WiFi hotspot, the computer will inform you that the network exists and ask whether you want to connect to it. If you have an older computer, you may need to use a software program to detect and connect to a wireless network.

Being able to connect to the Internet in public hotspots is extremely convenient. Wireless home networks are convenient as well. They allow you to easily connect multiple computers and to move them from place to place without disconnecting and reconnecting wires. In the next section, we'll look at how to create a wireless network in your home.

 

Building a Wireless Network

Quiz Corner
How much you know about WiFi and what it does? Test your knowledge with our WiFi Quiz!

If you already have several computers networked in your home, you can create a wireless network with a wireless access point. If you have several computers that are not networked, or if you want to replace your Ethernet network, you'll need a wireless router. This is a single unit that contains:

  1. A port to connect to your cable or DSL modem
  2. A router
  3. An Ethernet hub
  4. A firewall
  5. A wireless access point

A wireless router allows you to use wireless signals or Ethernet cables to connect your computers to one another, to a printer and to the Internet. Most routers provide coverage for about 100 feet (30.5 meters) in all directions, although walls and doors can block the signal. If your home is very large, you can buy inexpensive range extenders or repeaters to increase your router's range.

A wireless router uses an antenna to send signals to wireless devices and a wire to send signals to the Internet
Photo courtesy Consumer Guide Products
A wireless router uses an antenna to send signals to wireless devices and a wire to send signals to the Internet.

As with wireless adapters, many routers can use more than one 802.11 standard. 802.11b routers are slightly less expensive, but because the standard is older, they're slower than 802.11a, 802.11g and 802.11n routers. Most people select the 802.11g option for its speed and reliability.

Once you plug in your router, it should start working at its default settings. Most routers let you use a Web interface to change your settings. You can select:

  • The name of the network, known as its service set identifier (SSID) -- The default setting is usually the manufacturer's name.
  • The channel that the router uses -- Most routers use channel 6 by default. If you live in an apartment and your neighbors are also using channel 6, you may experience interference. Switching to a different channel should eliminate the problem.
  • Your router's security options -- Many routers use a standard, publicly available sign-on, so it's a good idea to set your own username and password.

Security is an important part of a home wireless network, as well as public WiFi hotspots. If you set your router to create an open hotspot, anyone who has a wireless card will be able to use your signal. Most people would rather keep strangers out of their network, though. Doing so requires you to take a few security precautions.

It's also important to make sure your security precautions are current. The Wired Equivalency Privacy (WEP) security measure was once the standard for WAN security. The idea behind WEP was to create a wireless security platform that would make any wireless network as secure as a traditional wired network. But hackers discovered vulnerabilities in the WEP approach, and today it's easy to find applications and programs that can compromise a WAN running WEP security.

To keep your network private, you can use one of the following methods:

  • WiFi Protected Access (WPA) is a step up from WEP and is now part of the 802.11i wireless network security protocol. It uses temporal key integrity protocol (TKIP) encryption. As with WEP, WPA security involves signing on with a password. Most public hotspots are either open or use WPA or 128-bit WEP technology, though some still use the vulnerable WEP approach.

  • Media Access Control (MAC) address filtering is a little different from WEP or WPA. It doesn't use a password to authenticate users -- it uses a computer's physical hardware. Each computer has its own unique MAC address. MAC address filtering allows only machines with specific MAC addresses to access the network. You must specify which addresses are allowed when you set up your router. This method is very secure, but if you buy a new computer or if visitors to your home want to use your network, you'll need to add the new machines' MAC addresses to the list of approved addresses. The system isn't foolproof. A clever hacker can spoof a MAC address -- that is, copy a known MAC address to fool the network that the computer he or she is using belongs on the network.

­Wireless networks are easy and inexpensive to set up, and most routers' Web interfaces are virtually self-explanatory. For more information on setting up and using a wireless network, check out the links.

More Great Links

Sources

  • Borisov, Nikita, Ian Goldberg and David Wagner. "Security of the WEP algorithm." University of California, Berkeley. (Aug. 7, 2008)
    http://www.isaac.cs.berkeley.edu/isaac/wep-faq.html
  • Geier, Jim. "802.11 WEP: Concepts and Vulnerability." Wi-Fi Planet. June 20, 2002. (Aug. 6, 2008)
    http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/tutorials/article.php/1368661
  • IEEE. (Aug. 6, 2008)
    http://www.ieee.org
  • IEEE. "IEEE Standard for Information technology -- Telecommunications and information exchange between systems -- Local and metropolitan area networks -- Specific requirements." (Aug. 6, 2008) http://standards.ieee.org/getieee802/download/802.11-2007.pdf

                                                                                                     

Long Range Links Explained                             Introduction:
I recently managed a successful 5 mile link across town, using just standard access points and antenna. While working out all of the signal loss calculations to see if the link was even possible, I started to understand how long range links work, and how manufacturers such as Cisco have been able to offer long range links while staying within the legal transmission power limits for Wi-Fi.

I had always assumed that the maximum range a wireless connection could be was about 1 mile (based on FCC power limit) and this was in line with the practical range tests I had carried out. To get increased range, always required sticking a big antenna on the Access Point, pushing the overall signal well over the FCC limit (20dbm).

While carrying out the 5 mile link test I found that the snr (signal to noise ratio) was not the really critical factor, but that it was the received power level that decided if a link was possible.
Transmit Power
The power usually expressed in mW or db [1] that the wireless device transmits at.
Receive Sensitivity
The level of signal the wireless device needs to receive in order to make a connection. Most wireless devices require a stronger signal to pick up a connection at 11Mbps than one at 1Mbps.
Antenna Gain
Antenna don't increase the transmission power, but focus the signal more. So instead of transmitting in every direction (including the sky and ground) antenna focus the signal usually either more horizontally or in one particular direction. This gain is measured in decibels [1].
Noise Level
This is the strength of the background noise that the wireless device is picking up.
Signal to Noise Ratio
The difference between the strength of the background noise and the strength of the signal. If the noise is greater than the signal, then no signal will be picked up. If the noise is only just less than the signal then there will be lots of lost packets. Ideally at least 5db difference between the noise and signal will allow for a clear connection.
EU Power Limit
In Europe the maximum signal that your antenna can transmit in ANY direction is 20 decibels. This is calculated by adding the wireless device transmit power(in decibels) to the antenna gain (in decibels) [1].
The basic premise for long range links is

Transmit Power is independant of Receive Sensitivity

I had always assumed (wrongly) that an access point that transmitted at a higher power, would receive the signal at a higher power as well. This is not the case. Increasing the power that an access point (or any wireless device) transmits at, does not affect the level of signal it needs to receive in order to make a connection.

When you stick an antenna onto a wireless device, the antenna gain acts on both the transmit power and receive sensitivity, so you are not only sending your signal further (in a more focused direction), but your are also able to listen to weaker signals. The FCC regulations only limit the transmit signal strength, not the receive sensitivity, so we need a way of increasing the receive sensitivity, but not increasing the transmit signal beyond the 20db limit.

Most access points and wireless devices in Europe and the US transmit at 15 - 17.5 db. (Some may claim 20db , but this includes the gain of the small antenna they are using) This would limit the antenna gain to just 2.5 - 5db (or less), which is not going to affect the range significantly. In free space (ie outside, with clear line of sight [2] ) for every 6db of increased signal strength or receive sensitivity you can double the range between the devices.

Some wireless devices however, let you reduce the transmit power, which allows us to use a more powerful antenna. This does not increase the overall strength of the signal , but does increase the receive sensitivity. If we do this at both ends of the link, we can increase the range, while staying within legal limits.

The Maths Explained
In order to get a signal from point A to point B, the signal arriving at the wireless device B needs to be greater than the receive sensitivity of that device

TPowerA + AntGainA - SignalLossAtoB + AntGainB > ReceiveSensB

TPowerA = Transmit Power of A
AntGainA = Antenna Gain of A [3]
AntGainB = Antenna Gain of B
SignalLossAtoB = Signal Loss between A and B
ReceiveSensB = Receive sensitive of B

In order to see how far we can get a signal, we need to calculate how much signal loss we can cope with, and still get a strong enough signal to B.

Maximum SignalLossAtoB = TPowerA + AntGainA + AntGainB - ReceiveSensB

As an example, if we base our figures on a 15db wireless device, 5db antenna at each end and -92 db receive sensitivity we get.

Maximum SignalLossAtoB = 15 + 5 + 5 - -92
Maximum SignalLossAtoB = 117db

In practice 117db should give you a range of 1-2 km (In theory it should be over 5km). If we now look at reducing the transmit power to 7db, and using 13db antenna on each end thus keeping the transmit signal strength to 20db, we get

Maximum SignalLossAtoB = 7 + 13 + 13 - -92
Maximum SignalLossAtoB = 125db

This gives us over twice the range of before, yet still keeps the signal strength legal.

Suitable Hardware:
Once I had worked out how to make long range links, I started to look round for wireless kits that would support long range point to point links. I was very disappointed to find not only the market quite thin, but the prices very high for such kits.The Wi-Fi catcher Biquad Antenna was a simple low cost effective solution to gain wireless.  Update The latest firmware for the D-Link DWL900AP+ Access point supports variable transmit power, making it the cheapest entry in the long range link arena by far. I remembered that the old v1.1 Wap11 from linksys could have its power level adjusted using a 3rd party Amtel utility, but on looking at the spec for the old Wap11 v1.1, the receive sensitivity is so poor, that it is not suitable for long range links.

Kit Transmit
Power
Receive
Sensitivity
Pros Cons
Cisco Aironet 350 0,7,13,15,17,20 db -85db@11Mpbs -94db@1Mbps Market Leader, Proved reliablity, Maximum Claimed Range 40.2km Oh so Expensive
3Com Wireless Bridge 7,13,18 db -81db@11Mpbs -87db@1Mbps Maximum Claimed Range 16.9km Expensive, less range than Cisco
D-Link DWL-900AP+ 10,13,16,19 db Same as WAP11?? Cheap and well supported Newcomer to the longrange arena
If anyone, knows of any other common hardware (no specialist kit) that supports variable transmit power, then please let me know.

Footnotes

[1] Device power is actually measured in dbm and antenna gain in dbi, but if you already know this, then this article is probably not for you.
[2] Freespace loss is also dependent on an unobstructed fresnal zone, but I don't really want to go into that here.
[3] In order to simplify the maths I'm ignoring cable loss between the wireless device and the antenna, as this can be simply treated as reduced antenna gain..

Web Hosting Companies